The city with surprisingly excellent food or not so surprising to some I’ve learned, as apparently this is the culinary capital of South America. After several people had all extremely enthusiastically encouraged me to change my plans and do an extended layover in Lima en route to Bogota, I put my trust in them and actually altered my flights all for the potential to have some high standard food. Crazy? Maybe. But it proved to be one of the best stops along my journey through SA.
Buzzing Sunday lunch spot, open daytime only. Loved it the moment I walked in – great, energetic vibe, with the option of either sitting at long picnic tables in the center or along the bar / open grill on the edge. Made friends with the chefs almost upon arrival, and was given a huge plate of grilled scallops served in open seashells on the house – incredible. Followed that with the causa (Peruvian specialty made with mashed tuna, potatos, avocado, mayo, and egg salad on the top) and the original hot/cold ceviche, which was a two-textured dish of fried calamari and tuna and which also was out of this world. I went back here at the end of my Lima trip too, for some great white wine and the churros, which are served with 3 sides; vanilla icecream, chocolate sauce, and dulce de leche sauce. Enough said.
Large open indoor/outdoor space, more of a formal feel than El Mercado, also lunch only spot. The food BLEW MY MIND, I think it is safe to say this is one of the best meals I have ever had. I started with the recommended grilled calamari that was layed on top of grilled vegetables and finished with the tuna ceviche with corn, sweet potato, and salad. My heart rate is speeding up again just writing this.
Local feeling, casual (and very hidden!) spot in Barranco. Has a more old school feel than anywhere else I tried, with flags of different countries and tons of mis-matched pictures on the walls. Had the parmesean scallops to start and the polpo (octopus) ceviche as the main.
Watch a sunset along the beaches in Miraflores. Well worth the walk down through the hills to get there.
Wander the Barranco area by day, go to the famous jazz club by night.
Eat. A lot.